March 3 Kagoshima, Japan

After 36 hours of really rough seas we arrived in Japan. Gary and I survived the rough seas without mishap but a lot of people, including some of the crew did not fare so well. We figured there was something going on when the captain said there would be some rough weather and the crew started tying down everything on deck, closing off all access to the outside decks and distributing barf bags! 

Anyway we arrived to a cool and cloudy day. Our tour started with a drive through the country. Kagoshima is in the southern part of Japan and is on a large peninsula that is largely agricultural. We passed fields of rape seed in bloom, peas, teas bushes and sweet potatoes. They distill a strong liquor from the potatoes (25% alcohol). They also raise black beef nd black pigs here.

Our first stop is at the town of Chiran. It is an old town which was once the stronghold of a Feudal Lord. He had his castle here and surrounding the castle were the homes of the samurai who protected him. Some of the houses have been preserved and are now inhabited by their descendants. Because the houses are their homes we cannot enter them but we can go into the gardens. We tour a series of beautiful, peaceful, traditional gardens. A few of the houses have a thatched roof, gradually being replaced with tile.

All the gardens have at least one high rock to represent the crane and one flat rock to represent the turtle, both are symbols of good health and longevity. We have seen these symbols in all the countries we have visited so far. Only one of the gardens has any water. The gardens are 250 – 300 years old. In one garden we saw flowering plum trees that are 380 years old. You can see where the rocks were broken apart for transportation. It is believed they broke the rocks apart, transported them using oxen, and reassembled them once they reached their destination. 

The flower of this district is the azalea and many of the gardens incorporate azalea bushes, unfortunately they are not in bloom until May. The background of mountains or forest are considered to be part of the garden called borrowed garden. 

There are very few flowers, no flower beds, and no grass just the occasional daffodil or crocus. The gardens are sent in a landscape of white sand which represents water. The gardens are maintained by experts supplied by the city and the owners cannot change the gardens so they will be maintained in their original state. In exchange for opening their gardens to the public the owners pay no property tax and have free gardening done. 

All of the houses have a stone gate, as you enter through the gate you are faced with a stone wall creating a maze, this is to make it difficult for the enemy to make an attack on the house. Immediately inside the gate was the “privy”. We are told it was located there for 3 reasons. First so guests could “do their business” before entering the house. Second so the samurai could prepare himself before exiting – he would be wearing a long, heavy skirt, shields and a long sword. Lastly, as the property is completely enclose by a wall and hedges someone could sit in the privy and listen in on the conversations outside.

The main street in the town is very neat, has sculptured trees lining the street, on one side there is a culvert with water flowing and large carp living in there. As we leave town the street is lined with both sides with large stone lanterns, these were all donated by families of the kamikaze pilots, who all reined in this area. Our guide did not say much about the war, except that the army was in charge of the country at that time and the second biggest mistake they made was introducing the kamikaze pilots. The first mistake was to challenge the western countries. Japan had never lost a war before and believed they were invincible. 

We leave Chiran to drive to a hotel for lunch. On the way we stop for a view of Mount Kaiuran, called the Mount Fuji of the south. It is also a single, conical shaped volcano. We arrive at the Iwasaki Hotel which is a resort area boasting a world class golf course, hot sand baths and hot springs. It was empty except for our buses but I expect it is a very popular spot in season. We had a fabulous lunch with sashimi, shabu-shabu (with local black pork), tempura, miso soup, tofu made from nuts, rice, pickled veggies, various sauces and locally grown green tea. As we left the hotel all the staff that had waited on us lined up outside the bus to bow and wave good-bye. We are told this is done to honor their customers, it happens again at another stop we make.

We then travel to Nagasakibana. Bana means nose and this is a rock outcrop shaped like a nose with a great view of Mt Kaiuran. As we walk out to the light house we pass by a Shinto temple which is dedicated to the fishermen. We are shown how to pray to the god. The shrine has a couple of bottles of Saki sitting on the steps. First you must pull the cord to wake the god whom is napping after having drunk the saki. Then you put money into the well and bow two times to the god. You make your request and bow two more times. If you want to know your fortune, you go to a box beside the bell cord and buy a folded piece of paper. Inside you will see your fortune which may be very good, good, so-so, bad or very bad. If it is bad you tie the paper to a rope by the shrine so the god will change your fortune. 

We are told the legend of the fisherman Toro and the dragon princess to whom the temple is dedicated. (if anyone is really interested ask me and I will tell you the story). 

Our last stop is at a crater lake which is inhabited by giant eels. The eels grow to almost 2 meters in length. There were a few in tanks so we could see what they look like. They look like giant eels. We also saw a display of Samurai fighting dress – a fierce looking bunch.

They do make you feel welcome here. We were greeted in the morning by a drum group and as the ship sailed off there were fireworks in our honor. As has been the case I every port except Hong Kong we are the only cruise ship here.

Some things we learned about Japan:
The country is divided into 200 prefectures, each of which operates like a state with a governmental body managing the area. The prefectures we are in has a relatively small population of 1.6 million people and 1.4 million pigs in an area of 9,187 sq kms. Including all the islands in the south it stretches 600 kms. Japan has a population of over 130 million people and 5 million vending machines. Our guide tells us that Japanese have problems with r & l, so they don’t care whether they are eating rice or lice or wether they are frying or flying.

By the harbor where we are docked is an active volcano, last year it had 900 eruptions and the last major one was in 1914. It has 3 peaks and is 1060 mts high. It was smoking as we pulled in and had a minor eruption (basically a puff of smoke) while we were there. Four thousand people live on the small island created by the volcano. Ferries run between the island and mainland 24/7 to ensure the islanders always have a way to get off the island.

90% of the population are Buddhist and 90% are Shinto. Baptisms are done in the Shinto style, wedding in Christian style and funerals in Buddhist style.

The Japanese all are covered by the national health plan. For this under 75 years there is a 30% charge, over 75 the charge is 10%. 

Everywhere is kept clean and they are very aware of the environment. They have to separate garbage into 31 different categories for recycling. It is considered very rude to litter and people keep their cars clean for the same reason.